What is Fumé Enamel?
Fumé enamel is a specialized type of vitreous enamel used primarily in high-end watch dials, characterized by a striking gradient effect that transitions from a solid hue at the center to a darker rim, resembling a “smoked” or “fumé” appearance (from the French word fumé, meaning smoked).
Fumé Enamel Dial
The Fumé Enamel dial will require a silver plate with a structure where the middle part is high and the outer part is low. When you enamel the dial, the middle part of the dial has a lighter enamel layer, resulting in a lighter color. In comparison, the outer part features a darker enamel layer, resulting in a darker color that creates a gradient effect. This phenomenon closely aligns with the principle of color gradation in a lake’s surface
How Fumé enamel dial made?
The manufacturing process for fumé enamel involves a series of intricate steps
that combine traditional enameling techniques with innovative adaptations to achieve the gradient effect.
Below is a detailed breakdown of the process, based on available information:
Preparing: First, the artisan will prepare the enamel materials by mixing them with water in an Agate bowl. Using an agate stick, the artisan will grind the materials until the enamel pigments turn into a fine powder. Afterward, the excess water will be poured out, and the enamel pigments will be left to dry.
Enameling: The artisan will then carefully paint enamel on the Fumé Silver Plate, ensuring an even spread across the entire plate until the entire dial is well enamelled. To prevent the dial from deforming during firing, we enamel both the front and reverse sides.
Baking: Then, the silver Fumé plate is placed in an 800° C (1,472° F) oven for a brief firing. After removing it, the plate is allowed to cool. This process of layer firing and multiple reheats is repeated, ultimately setting the enamel.
Repeat Enameling and Baking: After the initial firing, Enameling: the artisan will use a small hand tool to flatten the dial and carefully inspect it for any flaws. Imperfect dials are discarded. The acceptable ones are then coated with additional layers of enamel pigment and fired once more. Finally, the layers are drawn to the desired thickness, resulting in a dial with multiple colors and a flawless finish.
Each time, the spectacle of the Grand Feu occurs in the oven. The process is repeated until the required thickness is achieved. Up to 5 or sometimes 7 firings may be needed.
Polishing:
The artisan will then gently polish the enamel dial until the surface is smooth and reflective, nearing the completion of this intricate process. This time, we have upgraded and improved our production techniques and polishing skills, resulting in a smoother surface for our enamel plates, with almost no bubbles or small holes visible. The polishing process is a continuous and lengthy task. Moreover, the artisan needs to make timely adjustments to the polishing of the enamel plate based on his extensive experience, using a variety of tools to achieve the desired result.
This process seamlessly blends traditional craftsmanship with modern techniques, paying meticulous attention to every detail, resulting in the creation of an extraordinary timepiece